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Nepal Day 10 – Dingbouche to Lobouche

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Onwards to Dughla


I left Dingboche (elevation : 4530m - I stayed in 'lower' Dingboche though at an elevation closer to 4300m) that morning completely enraptured after having watched the glorious sunrise crawl slowly down the face of Ama Dablam (elevation : 6856m). The early part of the trek to Lobuche was pretty straightforward, with barely any elevation gain until reaching Dughla for lunch, which bode well for a few of the members of Sophie's group - one not feeling too well with a bad cough and a headache, and another with a swollen ankle.

Prayer Flags

Melt Water from the Glacier

The terrain started off a little steep, climbing its way up the hill to a chorten and then descending down to flat swaths of dry grass that were filled with yaks (Bos grunniens) that were kicking up the dry dust as they slowly made their way across the valley. As the trail lead its way to Dughla, the white-tipped mountains enclosed the valley with the town of Periche tightly nestled in below. The feeling of insignificance (that was now starting to become all-too-familiar) hit me once again as I gazed up at the wall of mountains that rose above us, realising that we were all just tiny dots lost in the vastness of the mountainscape.

As I approached Dughla, Tabuche Peak (elevation : 6495m) loomed to the left - a peak that I would later return to and get to know a little better on the way across to the Chola Pass. Dughla (elevation : 4620m) itself lay at the end of the terminal moraine of the Khumbu glacier on the other side of a stream of icy melt-water that trickled out from the base of the glacier, melt-water that would eventually merge with the churning river lower down in the valley.

I found to my surprise that this tiny 'village' only consisted of a solitary building, the Yak Lodge, that was bristling with customers, and was the only place where I could purchase food. I ended up stopping here with the others for some dhal bhat (NPR550, MYR20). As we all sat eating lunch, we noticed that Razlan's condition had worsened since that morning and so Binod decided that he and Razlan would stay in Dughla for an hour or so to see if some rest would help his condition. The rest of us geared up and made our way back to the trail.

Route Playback

Suunto Movescount Stats

The information from the Suunto Ambit for this part of the trip can be found on my Movescount Page

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Next (Day 10) : Dingbouche to Lobouche (Part 2)

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The Memorials of Chukpo Lari


The trail from Dughla continued up and along the steep slopes of the terminal morraine that had been carved over the years by the slow-moving ice of the Khumbu glacier. We trudged up these slopes slowly but surely and I caught myself wishing that I had relaxed for a while after the meal to let all the dhal bhat that I had eaten digest. After an hour or so of trudging, the slopes slowly rounded off and we caught sight of prayer flags, indicating that we were about to reach the memorials of Chukpo Lari.

Memorials of Chukpo Lari Lobouche Stream

The memorials here were dedicated to all those who had lost their lives attempting to climb Mount Everest. The memorials for local Nepalis were on one side and the ones for foreigners on the other, some were small and some were large and completely engulfed by prayer flags. A heavy veil of silence seemed to descend on the hikers that were there as everyone made their way around the memorials, each plaque that was read was a sad and poignant reminder of the perils and dangers that unnecessary risks, unpreparedness, and unexpected weather can bring when high up in the mountains. The memorials of Babu Sherpa, who was famous for reaching the summit of Mount Everest ten times as well as spending 21 hours on the summit without auxiliary oxygen; and Scott Fischer and Rob Hall, who were unfortunate victims of the 1996 summit attempt, a tragic expedition that inspired many books and films, were also here.

Lobouche Sunset


Lobouche


I crossed an icy stream as I descended down to the valley created by the shoulder of Lobouche East (elevation : 6145m) and the morraine of the Khumbu glacier, finding myself doing a little 'Khumbu dance' once again as I slipped around on the ice trying to regain my balance. Nuptse (elevation : 7861m) completely dominated the mountainscape in front on me as I hiked onwards. This magnificent peak left me entraced as it transformed right in front of my eyes - the white snow that lay on its steep slopes slowly morphing into a golden yellow as the dark shadows of the mountains behind me crept their way upwards, slowly engulfing the peak in darkness.

The last glimmer of light began to fade as I made my way into the Himalaya Eco Resort lodge, a pleasant and cozy lodge with super heavy-duty padlocks for the rooms. As I shut the front door of the lodge behind me and the grumbles and complaints of tired hikers around me slowly reached my ears, I began to stir from the daze that Nuptse had left me in. The daze had left me somewhat euphoric and I thought to myself then (perhaps mistakenly!) that I probably could have headed back out and repeated the entire day's trek all over again! I instead left my camera batteries at the front desk for charging (NPR800, MYR28), and buried myself in a corner of the common room for a delicious warm meal of dhal bhat with meat (NPR845, MYR30) and drinks (NPR320, MYR11), before retiring to the room with my trusty Kindle Paperwhite.

Area Map

EBC Region

Route Playback

Suunto Movescount Stats

The information from the Suunto Ambit for this part of the trip can be found on my Movescount Page

For those who also have a Suunto GPS device and would like to use the move as a route, please click on the following link : 

Check the route in

Expenditure

End of Day 10 Expenditure (RM)

Transportation : 0

Entrance Fees/Visa : 0

Gear : 0

Food : 61

Maps : 0

Medication : 0

Misc : 0

Internet/Charging : 28

Accommodation : 0

TOTAL (RM)

Total

: 2266

: 339

 : 446

: 417

: 24

: 14

: 28

: 53

: 118

: 3705 

Next (Day 11) : Everest Base Camp
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