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EBC Day 15 – Lakes of Gokyo

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Ngozumpa Tsho

The fifth lake, Ngozumpa Tsho, is half way between the fourth lake and Cho Oyu Base Camp, and just never seemed to appear each and every time I would expect it to. I caught myself getting exasperated after I rounded each hill and corner, and wondered why I was starting to get a little impetuous. The words "It is not about the destination; it is about the journey" then came to mind, and so I began to slow down a little and to just enjoy the walk for its own sake. Time then seemed to pass by more smoothly and the day's walk became far more rewarding. As soon as I rounded the last hill and finally saw the lake, I was greeted by a savage gust of wind and had to literally take a few steps back in order to stay upright. The gusts of wind were absolutely brutal and seemed to have a life of their own. I would hear them coming, with a sound akin to heavy rain approaching, and would almost get knocked over once again when they arrived.

Where the third and fourth lakes had been a vibrant turquoise, the fifth had a frozen, silvery sheen. This made the lake a contrast of sorts, as the drab colours made everything feel somewhat lifeless; whereas the noises around the lake made it seem like everything was alive. The sounds of the frozen lake were strange and otherworldly, and included: creaking, like old doors being opened very slowly; shattering, like glass plates hitting the ground; clanging, like metallic pipes being hit together; cracking, like dead trees splinting as they toppled over; and groaning, as if there was someone writhing in agony.

The 5th Lake, Ngozumpa Tsho, with Cho Oyu (elevation : 8188 m) peaking out on the top right

Cairns overlooking the 5th Lake, Ngozumpa Tsho; the peaks of Gyachung Kang (elevation : 7952 m) and Chakung/Hungchi (elevation : 7029 m)

I lingered for a while, watching a snow spindrift blowing off the peak of Cho Oyu (elevation : 8188m), the sixth highest mountain in the world, before making my way up to the viewpoint atop the moraine beside the fifth lake.

Snow spindrift blowing off Cho Oyu (elevation : 8188 m)

Next (Day 15) : The Ngozumpa Viewpoint
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