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Solo Hike

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EBC Day 12 – Kalapattar

Nepal Index

Kalapattar


The day before had been the first day of the entire trip where I would actually have considered myself to have been exhausted. Perhaps that is why my dreams at that point were so vivid.. or maybe it was just the altitude? The dream that I had that night was strange and very muddled, yet was somehow very clear. Some researchers think that the decreased oxygen levels at altitude somehow affect the recollection of dreams, Read more
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EBC Day 11 – Everest Base Camp

Nepal Index

Altitude Sickness


That morning, a sad farewell took place in Lobouche (elevation : 4940m) amongst a group of hikers from New Zealand. One of the party members apparently had been suffering from a bad headache and had just begun mumbling unintelligibly. It was (wisely) decided that he would need to make a quick descent back down to lower altitudes, whilst the rest of the party continued up to Gorak Chep (elevation : 5164m). I say wise because the altered mental status (a.k.a AMS) indicated an onset of HACE. Read more

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EBC Day 10 – Dingbouche to Lobouche

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Onwards to Dughla


I left Dingboche (elevation : 4530m - I stayed in 'lower' Dingboche though at an elevation closer to 4300m) that morning completely enraptured after having watched the glorious sunrise crawl slowly down the face of Ama Dablam (elevation : 6812m). The early part of the trek to Lobuche was pretty straightforward, with barely any elevation gain until reaching Dughla for lunch, which bode well for a few of the members of Sophie's group - one not feeling too well with a bad cough and a headache, and another with a swollen ankle. Read more
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EBC Day 09 – Acclimatisation at Dingboche

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Dingboche Acclimatisation


The plan was to spend a day acclimatising once again here in Dingboche (Sophie's group was doing the same, before heading up to Lobuche via Dughla the next day). I had decided to carry on with them for the next day or two and to skip the high-altitude pass of Kongma La since the pass was not on the GHT pass list. This meant that instead of trekking up to Chukhung from Dingboche, climbing up Chukhung Ri and then crossing Kongma La to Lobouche the next day, I would instead head up the path that lead to Chukhung (elevation : 4730m) for a while before coming back down to Dingboche for the night. Read more
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EBC Day 08 – Tengbouche to Dingbouche

Nepal Index

Tengbouche Monastery


I woke up early to join a group of other hikers that were heading to the Tengbouche Monastery for the morning puja, an act of devotion that involves acts such as bowing, making offerings, and chanting. As we approached the monastery, a monk leaned out one of the second-storey windows and blew on a huge conch shell called a 'sankha' - a trumpet that is customary to be blown before the morning puja. Read more
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EBC Day 07 – Namche Bazaar to Tengbouche

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On to Tengbouche


Even though it was bright and sunny that morning, the temperatures outside hovered just above freezing - a sure sign that winter was just around the corner. Despite the cold, I quickly packed up my gear, eager to get back out on the trail and on to Tengbouche. After making my way up the narrow shop-lined alleyways to the northern side of Namche Bazaar (elevation : 3440m), I turned right along the trail that began to lead eastwards out of the town. As the buildings started to disappear and Namche Bazaar faded away into the distance, the mountains gradually began to open up to proudly showcase their majestic splendour. Read more
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EBC Day 06 – Acclimatisation at Namche Bazaar

Nepal Index

Namche Bazaar


The day started off slow and relaxed with a bit of coffee and lemon tea (NPR70+150) before I went out to look around the quaint little shops that were scattered around town. Namche Bazaar (elevation : 3440m) is considered the business capital of the Khumbu region and is the site of a weekly market where you can find all sorts of goods and trekking paraphernalia. I ended up stocking up on quite a few things that I felt I needed - a mesh bag (NPR400), another water bottle (NPR250), some filtered water (NPR100), and extra toilet paper (NPR100). Read more
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EBC Day 05 – Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Nepal Index

Nature's Wonders


Today I witnessed the mountains come to life! I woke up at 04:30 and went outside to do some stargazing in the crystal clear mountain skies, braving the brisk temperatures that were as low as -10 degrees Celsius. After setting up the intervalometer on my Nikon D7000, I stood watching the constellation Orion and Jupiter (then situated just above the Hyades cluster in Taurus) slowly set behind the mountains. Read more

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EBC Day 04 – Lukla to Phakding

Nepal Index

'World's Most Dangerous Flight'


I had been looking forward to the flight to Lukla for quite a while as all the things that I had both read and had heard from others travelers made the journey not only sound dangerous but also immensely fun. As such, I awoke that day bright and early and very eager to go. I had paid USD282 (NPR29000) for the return flight from Kathmandhu to Lukla Read more

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EBC Day 03 - Boudhanath & Pashupatinath

Nepal Index

TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) Card


I had decided to head to the TIMS office as early as possible in order to obtain my TIMS card as my main reason for being in Nepal was to go trekking. I also wanted to get it over with so that I could enjoy Kathmandhu without it weighing on my mind. So after extending my stay in the hotel for another night - I gave USD10 and received NPR170 in change (which would mean that it come up to about NPR870) - and after my compulsory morning coffee which cost NPR30 at my favourite Newa Mo:mo Restaurant, I went in search for a mountain bike to rent. Read more

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