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Topo: Wilyabrup

Cape to Cape Index

Wilyabrup


Wilyabrup is by far the largest climbing crag in the Margaret River region. Most of the routes on this stretch of red granite are trad routes but there are also a fair amount of bolted routes scattered around. Although the crag lies three hours drive south from Perth, the majestic views of the coast and the fantastic roar of the crashing waves down below makes the long drive more than worthwhile. You can even head off down the Cape to Cape track from the cliffs if you want to explore the surroundings.

Getting There

If you are coming from Perth (driving south) down Caves Road, you'll need to turn right at the junction that lies just after Gralyn Winery. This turning leads down a small, gravel road that continues on past a right and then a left turn before bringing you to a small clearing where you can park your car. From here you need to cross the fence using the stile and follow the firebreak trail over Biljedup Brook and on to another fence. Cross this fence and continue down to the cliffs. The walk is just under a kilometre long and takes about 15-20 minutes.

Directions to Wilyabrup Crag from the Caves Road junction

360 Panorama


Facilities


Be sure to top up your water supply before heading out as there is no supply of fresh water at the crags. There is a 'long-drop' toilet at the southern end of the cliffs though that has a spectacular view. If you are climbing in a large group, be sure to contact the Calgardup Cave Office at 97577422 to book and to secure your permits (AUD8 per person per day). If you are in a smaller group of 5 or less, then permits are not required.

The wilyabrup toilet

The 'long-drop' toilet

Checking out the wilyabrup cliffs


Wildlife


Dolphins at wilyabrup At the end of the year, you have a small chance of spotting migrating whales if you scan the horizon every once in a while, but the easiest marine mammals to spot out here are Common Bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus). The local dolphins surf the waves of the Margaret River coast all year-round and according to researchers, may use these waves as a cover for stealth after forcing fish closer to the shore. The surfing of dolphins might not only be for hunting though, and could also be used to define their social standing within their respective pods. Dolphins have been observed surfing this way by using the wakes of boats, so might even be doing it just for a little bit of fun!

Diurnal skinks (Family : Scincidae) can also sometimes be spotted splayed out on the rocks, basking in the warmth of the morning sun. They do this to raise their internal body temperature which in turn stimulates their metabolism. This makes their muscles more limber which not only helps them hunt for food, but also helps them escape predators. Skinks are known to love digging and burrowing so most often than not will be hidden inside gaps in the rocks or underground where they are mostly safe from predators.

wilyabrup skink

Skinks can oftentimes be spotted hiding in nooks and crannies

wilyabrup crags

Interactive Location Map

(contains links to the topos of the respective walls)

Peach Face
Banana Wall
The Terrace
Steel Wall
Hope Buttress
One for the Road
Fat Chance
Southern End
Cape to Cape Track
Cape to Cape Track

Southern End

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
01 Gargoyle Unknown 12m 17
02 Fairy Floss Trad 10m 12
03 Brepus Trad 10m 10
04 Woman Accept It For What It Is Trad 10m 20
05 Gritstone Reminiscence* Trad 10m 18
06 English Ethics Unknown 10m 20
07 Twenty Questions Trad 10m 12
08 Left Hand Crack Trad 10m 16
09 MASC'ed Boschman Sport 15m 25
10 The Spin of It Sport 15m 24
11 Inner Space** Trad 15m 17
12 Totally Awesome*** Trad 17m 19
13 Waterfall's Second Folly Trad 17m 15
14 Waterfall's Second Folly Direct Start Trad 17m 17
15 Rockfish Dreaming** Trad 20m 19
16 Outer Space Sport 6m 25

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Fat Chance Area

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
17 Tom thumb Trad 14m 11
18 Tom Thumb Direct Finish Mixed 13m 15
19 Setting Sun* Sport 13m 15
20 Fat Crack Trad 15m 15
21 Fat Chance** Mixed 15m 20
22 Battling the Bulge Sport 15m 19
23 Slapping the Fat Trad 15m 17
24 Gutted Trad 15m 16
25 Blubber Boy Trad 15m 18
26 Orryjohn Trad 15m 8

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Steel Wall

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
01 Pas de Levitation Trad 40m 23
02 In the Crack or on Your Back Trad 40m 25
03 Verbosity Trad 20m 13
04 Escape Hatch* Trad 20m 24
05 K.G.B.** Trad 25m 26
06 Blondes Have More Fun* Trad 25m 22
07 Bottoms Up Unknown 25m 22
08 The Great Temptress Unknown 25m 18
09 Stormcock* Trad 30m 10
10 Sombre Unknown 25m 18
11 Welcome to Arapiles** Trad 25m 21
12 Northern Roof Unknown 30m 25
13 High Reel Unknown 35m 14
14 Cymbal Unknown 35m 18

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The Terrace & Banana Wall

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
01 Precious Metals** Trad 15m 25
02 The Future Grins* Trad 15m 22
03 Finish Fatale* Trad 15m 22
04 Thrice Bitten* Trad 15m 17
05 Metamorphic Sausage Trad 15m 13
06 North Chimney* Trad 15m 10
07 Thin Crack Trad 8m 14
08 Jug Abuse* Trad 20m 21
09 Northwall Trad 30m 11
10 Banana Split** Trad 30m 14
11 Dessert*** Sport 25m 25
12 Use No S.L.C.D.'s** Trad 20m 19
13 Corpus Delecti*** Trad 20m 18
14 Block and Tackle Trad 20m 18
15 Balted Frenzy Trad 20m 18
16 Book of Funk** Mixed 20m 26

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