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Province 1

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EBC Day 18 – Namche Bazaar to Lukla

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Back to Lukla


The scenery that awaited me just south of Namche was absolutely gorgeous. The pinewood (Pinus sp.) forests that laced the southern hills were a mix of vibrant reds and greens, and the backdrop of white and silver layers of snow that adorned the southern slopes of Nupla (elevation : 5885m) really brought out the contrast of colours. Read more
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EBC Day 17 – Lungden to Namche Bazaar

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Leaving Lungden


Despite the ferocious wind that was blowing up the valley from the south, it only took 30 minutes to hike from Lungden (Nepali : लुन्देन) (elevation : 4375m) to Marulen (elevation : 4210m). At first, Marulen was akin to a ghost town, as all the houses were bolted from the outside and there was not a single person in sight. I did however end up seeing three people right at the end of the town, which struck me as somewhat odd for a fairly large town (at least by Nepalese mountain standards) of about 12 houses. The days were getting much colder and the nights were getting much shorter, so the scarcity of people was most likely due to the coming of winter. Read more
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EBC Day 16 – Renjo La Pass

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Renjo La Pass


Since today was going to be a big day, I decided to spend a bit more time 'fueling up' with three cups of coffee (NPR300) and macaroni and cheese (NPR450), whilst enjoying the views of Gokyo Tsho that lay just outside the lodge. I left slightly later than the other hikers as I did not want to hike with anyone along the way. This was because I was in search of the feeling of complete isolation (or rather as close as I could get it), as the thought of no one being around you for many kilometres, although initially disconcerting, can ultimately be very emancipating. Read more
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EBC Day 15 – Lakes of Gokyo

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Thonak Tsho


I had another lucid dream that night. For some reason I was in Singapore this time around, and was standing on a beach with a rented bicycle by my side. I was looking out over the ocean and was watching some world-class waves being churned up by hurricane-strength winds. Suddenly, a huge tidal wave swept through the coast and washed away everything in its path except for me. The dream had probably been inspired by the ridiculous howling winds that had swept down the valley that night and had buffeted the small town of Gokyo. Read more
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EBC Day 14 – Gokyo & Gokyo Ri

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The Ngozumpa Glacier


I slept for ages that night, going to sleep around 18:00 just after dinner and waking up around 06:00 the next morning. I am accustomed to getting about six hours of sleep every night, so such a long duration is very unusual and was an indication that the Cho La pass must have taken a toll on me. The 'Khumbu cough' had also finally caught up to me, leaving my throat not just dry but also a little phlegmy. Read more
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EBC Day 13 – Cho La Pass

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Leaving Dzongla


*When someone tells you that the Cho La pass is closed because of snow, be sure to take what they say with a pinch of salt. Porters and guides have been known to tell hikers this to try to dissuade them from crossing the pass*
It was still chilly that morning but the perfectly clear skies were an indication of good weather. I added an extra layer to keep me warm but began to perspire as soon as I started walking, so was forced to quickly take it off. Sweating in cold weather can be quite dangerous as sweat that is not wicked away can freeze and will end up lowering one's body temperature. Read more
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