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Topo: Wilyabrup

Cape to Cape Index
Leeuwin-Naturaliste - National Park - Category 2
Wilyabrup

Wilyabrup is by far the largest climbing crag in the Margaret River region. Most of the routes on this stretch of red granite are trad routes but there are also a fair amount of bolted routes scattered around. Although the crag lies three hours drive south from Perth, the majestic views of the coast and the fantastic roar of the crashing waves down below makes the long drive more than worthwhile. You can even head off down the Cape to Cape track from the cliffs if you want to explore the surroundings.

Getting There

If you are coming from Perth (driving south) down Caves Road, you'll need to turn right at the junction that lies just after Gralyn Winery. This turning leads down a small, gravel road that continues on past a right and then a left turn before bringing you to a small clearing where you can park your car. From here you need to cross the fence using the stile and follow the firebreak trail over Biljedup Brook and on to another fence. Cross this fence and continue down to the cliffs. The walk is just under a kilometre long and takes about 15-20 minutes.

Directions to Wilyabrup Crag from the Caves Road junction

360 Panorama


Facilities

Be sure to top up your water supply before heading out as there is no supply of fresh water at the crags. There is a 'long-drop' toilet at the southern end of the cliffs though that has a spectacular view. If you are climbing in a large group, be sure to contact the Calgardup Cave Office at 97577422 to book and to secure your permits (AUD8 per person per day). If you are in a smaller group of 5 or less, then permits are not required.

The 'long-drop' toilet


Wildlife

At the end of the year, you have a small chance of spotting migrating whales if you scan the horizon every once in a while, but the easiest marine mammals to spot out here are Common Bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus). The local dolphins surf the waves of the Margaret River coast all year-round and according to researchers, may use these waves as a cover for stealth after forcing fish closer to the shore. The surfing of dolphins might not only be for hunting though, and could also be used to define their social standing within their respective pods. Dolphins have been observed surfing this way by using the wakes of boats, so might even be doing it just for a little bit of fun!

Diurnal skinks (Family: Scincidae) can also sometimes be spotted splayed out on the rocks, basking in the warmth of the morning sun. They do this to raise their internal body temperature which in turn stimulates their metabolism. This makes their muscles more limber which not only helps them hunt for food, but also helps them escape predators. Skinks are known to love digging and burrowing so most often than not will be hidden inside gaps in the rocks or underground where they are mostly safe from predators.

Skinks can oftentimes be spotted hiding in nooks and crannies

Interactive Location Map

Clicking on each crag will bring you to its respective topo

Peach Face
Banana Wall
The Terrace
Steel Wall
Hope Buttress
One for the Road
Fat Chance
Southern End
Cape to Cape Track
Cape to Cape Track

Southern End

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
01 Gargoyle Unknown 12 m 17
02 Fairy Floss Trad 10 m 12
03 Brepus Trad 10 m 10
04 Woman Accept It For What It Is Trad 10 m 20
05 Gritstone Reminiscence* Trad 10 m 18
06 English Ethics Unknown 10 m 20
07 Twenty Questions Trad 10 m 12
08 Left Hand Crack Trad 10 m 16
09 MASC'ed Boschman Sport 15 m 25
10 The Spin of It Sport 15 m 24
11 Inner Space** Trad 15 m 17
12 Totally Awesome*** Trad 17 m 19
13 Waterfall's Second Folly Trad 17 m 15
14 Waterfall's Second Folly Direct Start Trad 17 m 17
15 Rockfish Dreaming** Trad 20 m 19
16 Outer Space Sport 6 m 25

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Fat Chance Area

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
17 Tom thumb Trad 14 m 11
18 Tom Thumb Direct Finish Mixed 13 m 15
19 Setting Sun* Sport 13 m 15
20 Fat Crack Trad 15 m 15
21 Fat Chance** Mixed 15 m 20
22 Battling the Bulge Sport 15 m 19
23 Slapping the Fat Trad 15 m 17
24 Gutted Trad 15 m 16
25 Blubber Boy Trad 15 m 18
26 Orryjohn Trad 15 m 8

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Steel Wall

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
01 Pas de Levitation Trad 40 m 23
02 In the Crack or on Your Back Trad 40 m 25
03 Verbosity Trad 20 m 13
04 Escape Hatch* Trad 20 m 24
05 K.G.B.** Trad 25 m 26
06 Blondes Have More Fun* Trad 25 m 22
07 Bottoms Up Unknown 25 m 22
08 The Great Temptress Unknown 25 m 18
09 Stormcock* Trad 30 m 10
10 Sombre Unknown 25 m 18
11 Welcome to Arapiles** Trad 25 m 21
12 Northern Roof Unknown 30 m 25
13 High Reel Unknown 35 m 14
14 Cymbal Unknown 35 m 18

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The Terrace & Banana Wall

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
01 Precious Metals** Trad 15 m 25
02 The Future Grins* Trad 15 m 22
03 Finish Fatale* Trad 15 m 22
04 Thrice Bitten* Trad 15 m 17
05 Metamorphic Sausage Trad 15 m 13
06 North Chimney* Trad 15 m 10
07 Thin Crack Trad 8 m 14
08 Jug Abuse* Trad 20 m 21
09 Northwall Trad 30 m 11
10 Banana Split** Trad 30 m 14
11 Dessert*** Sport 25 m 25
12 Use No S.L.C.D.'s** Trad 20 m 19
13 Corpus Delecti*** Trad 20 m 18
14 Block and Tackle Trad 20 m 18
15 Balted Frenzy Trad 20 m 18
16 Book of Funk** Mixed 20 m 26

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