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Topo: Wilyabrup

Cape to Cape Index

Wilyabrup


Wilyabrup is by far the largest climbing crag in the Margaret River region. Most of the routes on this stretch of red granite are trad routes but there are also a fair amount of bolted routes scattered around. Although the crag lies three hours drive south from Perth, the majestic views of the coast and the fantastic roar of the crashing waves down below makes the long drive more than worthwhile. You can even head off down the Cape to Cape track from the cliffs if you want to explore the surroundings.

Getting There

If you are coming from Perth (driving south) down Caves Road, you'll need to turn right at the junction that lies just after Gralyn Winery. This turning leads down a small, gravel road that continues on past a right and then a left turn before bringing you to a small clearing where you can park your car. From here you need to cross the fence using the stile and follow the firebreak trail over Biljedup Brook and on to another fence. Cross this fence and continue down to the cliffs. The walk is just under a kilometre long and takes about 15-20 minutes.

Directions to Wilyabrup Crag from the Caves Road junction

360 Panorama


Facilities


Be sure to top up your water supply before heading out as there is no supply of fresh water at the crags. There is a 'long-drop' toilet at the southern end of the cliffs though that has a spectacular view. If you are climbing in a large group, be sure to contact the Calgardup Cave Office at 97577422 to book and to secure your permits (AUD8 per person per day). If you are in a smaller group of 5 or less, then permits are not required.

The wilyabrup toilet

The 'long-drop' toilet

Checking out the wilyabrup cliffs


Wildlife


Dolphins at wilyabrupAt the end of the year, you have a small chance of spotting migrating whales if you scan the horizon every once in a while, but the easiest marine mammals to spot out here are Common Bottlenose dolphins (Tursiops truncatus). The local dolphins surf the waves of the Margaret River coast all year-round and according to researchers, may use these waves as a cover for stealth after forcing fish closer to the shore. The surfing of dolphins might not only be for hunting though, and could also be used to define their social standing within their respective pods. Dolphins have been observed surfing this way by using the wakes of boats, so might even be doing it just for a little bit of fun!

Diurnal skinks (Family: Scincidae) can also sometimes be spotted splayed out on the rocks, basking in the warmth of the morning sun. They do this to raise their internal body temperature which in turn stimulates their metabolism. This makes their muscles more limber which not only helps them hunt for food, but also helps them escape predators. Skinks are known to love digging and burrowing so most often than not will be hidden inside gaps in the rocks or underground where they are mostly safe from predators.

wilyabrup skink

Skinks can oftentimes be spotted hiding in nooks and crannies

wilyabrup crags

Interactive Location Map

Clicking on each crag will bring you to its respective topo

Peach Face
Banana Wall
The Terrace
Steel Wall
Hope Buttress
One for the Road
Fat Chance
Southern End
Cape to Cape Track
Cape to Cape Track

Southern End

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
01GargoyleUnknown12m17
02Fairy FlossTrad10m12
03BrepusTrad10m10
04Woman Accept It For What It IsTrad10m20
05Gritstone Reminiscence*Trad10m18
06English EthicsUnknown10m20
07Twenty QuestionsTrad10m12
08Left Hand CrackTrad10m16
09MASC'ed BoschmanSport15m25
10The Spin of ItSport15m24
11Inner Space**Trad15m17
12Totally Awesome***Trad17m19
13Waterfall's Second FollyTrad17m15
14Waterfall's Second Folly Direct StartTrad17m17
15Rockfish Dreaming**Trad20m19
16Outer SpaceSport6m25

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Fat Chance Area

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
17Tom thumbTrad14m11
18Tom Thumb Direct FinishMixed13m15
19Setting Sun*Sport13m15
20Fat CrackTrad15m15
21Fat Chance**Mixed15m20
22Battling the BulgeSport15m19
23Slapping the FatTrad15m17
24GuttedTrad15m16
25Blubber BoyTrad15m18
26OrryjohnTrad15m8

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Steel Wall

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
01Pas de LevitationTrad40m23
02In the Crack or on Your BackTrad40m25
03VerbosityTrad20m13
04Escape Hatch*Trad20m24
05K.G.B.**Trad25m26
06Blondes Have More Fun*Trad25m22
07Bottoms UpUnknown25m22
08The Great TemptressUnknown25m18
09Stormcock*Trad30m10
10SombreUnknown25m18
11Welcome to Arapiles**Trad25m21
12Northern RoofUnknown30m25
13High ReelUnknown35m14
14CymbalUnknown35m18

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The Terrace & Banana Wall

#RouteTypeLengthDifficulty
01Precious Metals**Trad15m25
02The Future Grins*Trad15m22
03Finish Fatale*Trad15m22
04Thrice Bitten*Trad15m17
05Metamorphic SausageTrad15m13
06North Chimney*Trad15m10
07Thin CrackTrad8m14
08Jug Abuse*Trad20m21
09NorthwallTrad30m11
10Banana Split**Trad30m14
11Dessert***Sport25m25
12Use No S.L.C.D.'s**Trad20m19
13Corpus Delecti***Trad20m18
14Block and TackleTrad20m18
15Balted FrenzyTrad20m18
16Book of Funk**Mixed20m26

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