November 22, 2012 Posted by
Ramon Fadli in
Alpine, Arctic & Antarctic Tundra,
Budget,
Glaciers,
Hiking,
Lakes,
Mountains,
Nepal,
Peak Labels,
Pradesh 1,
Solo Hike EBC Day 15 – Lakes of Gokyo
The fifth lake, Ngozumpa Tsho,

is half way between the fourth lake and Cho Oyu Base Camp, and just never seemed to appear each and every time I would expect it to. I caught myself getting exasperated after I rounded each hill and corner, and wondered why I was starting to get a little impetuous. The words "It's not about the destination; it's about the journey" then came to mind, and so I began to slow down a little and to just enjoy the walk for its own sake. Time then seemed to pass by more smoothly and the day's walk became far more rewarding. As soon as I rounded the last hill and finally saw the lake, I was greeted by a savage gust of wind and had to literally take a few steps back in order to stay upright. The gusts of wind were absolutely brutal and seemed to have a life of their own. I would hear them coming, with a sound akin to heavy rain approaching, and would almost get knocked over once again when they arrived.Where the third and fourth lakes had been a vibrant turquoise, the fifth had a frozen, silvery sheen. This made the lake a contrast of sorts, as the drab colours made everything feel somewhat lifeless; whereas the noises around the lake made it seem like everything was alive. The sounds of the frozen lake were strange and otherworldly, and included: creaking, like old doors being opened very slowly; shattering, like glass plates hitting the ground; clanging, like metallic pipes being hit together; cracking, like dead trees splinting as they toppled over; and groaning, as if there was someone writhing in agony.
The 5th Lake, Ngozumpa Tsho, with Cho Oyu (elevation : 8188m) peaking out on the top right
Cairns overlooking the 5th Lake, Ngozumpa Tsho; the peaks of Gyachung Kang (elevation : 7952m) and Chakung/Hungchi (elevation : 7029m)I lingered for a while, watching a snow spindrift blowing off the peak of Cho Oyu (
elevation : 8188m), the sixth highest mountain in the world, before making my way up to the viewpoint atop the moraine beside the fifth lake.
Snow spindrift blowing off Cho Oyu (elevation : 8188m)