Topo: Batu Caves

Batu Caves

The limestone formations that make up the Batu Caves (Tamil: பத்து மலை) complex are said to be hundreds of millions of years old. The complex itself is mainly known for the Hindu temples (the main one dedicated to Lord Murugan), and the heavily publicised annual Hindu pilgrimage that takes place during Thaipusam (Tamil: தைப்பூசம்). Batu Caves derives its name from Sungai Batu (Stone River), the river that runs past the limestone complex.

Less known to the world is Batu Caves' significance to local rock climbers and the weekend pilgrimages that they make to its beautiful walls. There are plenty of limestone walls to be found around the complex, many of them decorated with overhangs and tufas, that offer some fantastic rock climbing for climbers of all levels. The more popular crags like Damai tend to be more "maintained" and don't have the dense vine- and tree-cover that inevitably tends to build up on the rockface over time.

Damai Crag

Getting There

Getting to the Damai crag can be fairly tricky if you have never been there before as it is hidden deep within the narrow, tangled roads of 'Kampung Wira Melayu' village. There are a few bus options available (Rapid KL U1 & U10) that will stop at the Pinggiran Batu Caves bus stop, but this stop is still fairly far from the crag itself and requires a bit of walking to get to. The best way by far is to drive there or to get in contact with some local climbers and hitch a ride with them (directions from the main temple can be found below). The Damai crag lies just next to a football field and a small mosque and can be clearly seen from a distance.

Directions to the Damai Crag from the main Batu Caves temple (and KTM train station)

There is a small shop located right next to the crag that rents out climbing gear from harnesses and shoes to sets of quickdraws. If you have no lead climbing experience and are looking to learn the basics, or are experienced and just need a climbing partner and/or a guide, you can contact Alif from Verticale for guided tours.

damai crag

damai crag

You can find the topo for the main wall and the left wall below. Please bear in mind that there is another wall off to the right that is still being developed and the names and grades have yet to be released. I will update this post once they are.

Damai Left

damai crag topo

01 Akar Molek Sport 15m 5c
02 Muji* Sport 14m 5c+
03 Puteri Sport 9m 5c+
04 Unknown Sport 26m 6a+
05 Unknown Sport 28m 6a
06 Base Jumper Sport 26m 6a
07 Sunday Sport 35m 6a
08 Mesin Jahit (Sewing Machine) Sport 26m 6a+
09 Senang Gila (Real Easy) Sport 35m 6a
10 Tq Doyork Sport 35m 6a+
11 Singing Wall Sport 32m 6a
12 3 Brothers Sport 24m 6b
13 Jah Love Climbing** Sport 24m 6b
14 Water on the Rock Sport 22m 6a+
15 Sasau Sport 22m 6a+

Damai Main (Left)

damai crag topo

01 TJ Sport 28m 6a+
02 Ichineesanghait Sport 28m 5c
03 Up Step Sport 30m 5c
04 Sweet Maria Sport 22m 5c
05 Duckula Sport 28m 5c
06 Permaisuri Sport 28m 5c
07 Redemption Song Sport 28m 5c+
08 Granular Spindrift Sport 14m 5c
09 Good Onion* Sport 25m 5c

Damai Main (Right)

damai crag topo

10 Reservoir Doggin' Sport 10m 5c+
11 Ghana Power Sport 10m 5c
12 Lead Man Sport 12m 5c
13 Lightning Grip* Sport 25m 6b
14 Golly Gully Sport 18m 5c
15 Rainman Sport 16m 6a
16 Thunder Sport 15m 6a
17 Monsoon** Sport 25m 6a+
18 Bad News Sport 25m 6a
19 Virgin Climb Sport 15m 6a
20 Crack X* Sport 20m 6a
21 Dry Season* Sport 25m 6c